Arequipa to Puno

Our last night in Arequipa we layed pretty low as we had an early flight the next morning. We ate at little hole in the wall Indian restaurant (very cheap), and I ordered something that looked liked veggies with rice and some kind of sauce - which is was, but the veggies were all deep fried in something tasty but totally unrecognizable... I ate it, of course! When in Rome...

Monday morning we were up early and to the airport at 6AM, where we were informed, again, that our flight time had changed. This time our flight - same flight number! - was departing immediately. Almost two hours ahead of schedule. We definitely plan on calling ahead to check the status of our last flight from Cusco to Lima.

We arrived in Juliaca after a short 25 minute flight. Juliaca is mainly a passing-through town for Puno, so we didn´t stay. Because the flight was also heading to Cusco, not everyone got off the plane. Even though the English was almost unrecognizable, it was very clear from the pictures on the screens on the plane, not to mention the big sign at the airport saying "Internacional Aeropuerto de Juliaca," that were not yet in Cusco. A uniformed flight attendant approached Talia and asked if we were going to Cusco, and when we said that Juliaca was in fact our destination he informed us they had "lost" ten passengers. Anyway, we watched him corral some gringos back onto the plane while quite a few people in the terminal were giggling.

We grabbed our bags and hopped into a taxi, where our driver (Carlos? I can´t remember.) gave us a quick tour of Juliaca before taking us to Puno, about 30 minutes away. The driving was insane - everyone honking, passing in the oncoming lanes, and merging us right into the dirt at one point. Juliaca looked extremely poor - even the Plaza de Armas was sad to look at. But once we got out of Juliaca and were in the highlands it was aboslutely gorgous.

The Andean highlands are about 11,000 feet (3800 meters, whatever that converts to. I don´t do math on vacation.), and it was obviously big on agriculture and livestock. The highlands are essentially these beautiful flat plains surrounded by the Andes mountain range, but of course because we were already up so high the peaks don´t look quite so huge. There weren´t any real towns between the two cities, but lots of houses dotting the plains, complete with low stone walls and hers of sheep, some even grazing unmonitored by the side of the road. All the while we´re driving, Carlos is telling us things in Spanish, and I was getting maybe one out of ten words. We passed through a checkpoint where he said there were armed robberies at night but that we were certainly safe during the day, and told us he was "muy fuerte" (very strong) and would protect us. He completed his thought by punching one fist into his other hand. We`ve been lucky with our cab drivers, certainly.

We drove over some hills and dropped into Puno around 8:30 in the morning. Beth is still very under the weather, so thankfully we were able to get right into our room. Actually, when we checked in, they took our bags for us and directed us to desayuno (breakfast), which was a big basket of bread, yogurt, juice, coffee and tea, ham, and butter and jam. Lovely! Here's Talia in the Hotel Italia in Puno enjoying our desayuno:



We put Beth right to bed - we think the combination of altitude and illness is kicking her butt - after a big huffy three flights of stairs. We certainly are all feeling the altitude! Talia and I hit the streets of Puno to figure out this little town.

First, we wanted to get out train tickets from the Puno train station, a mere two blocks from our hotel. So, to the train station. But no, we need Beth´s passport as well. So we walk around, go the hotel to get the passport, go to an ATM where the screen that asks you how much you want to withdraw was just black so we guessed and pushed random buttons, then go back the train station. But oops, we still don´t have enough cash, so it´s back to the hotel for more dollars. Then back to the train station where we were finally able to buy the tickets, although Talia and I were both so dumb from the altitude we had to count the money like ten times, and even then screwed it up. Here's Talia trying to count our money for what must be the hundredth time:


But we now have all of our train tickets in hand, so we´re ready to go...

We spent the rest of the morning shopping and walking the streets. Puno had tiny, claustrophobic streets with tiny little sidewalks, we think because the streets used to be waterways that were connected with pedestrian bridges. Photo of one of the wider streets:


There is a lot of exhaust and the traffic is incredible, but the town is tiny. Talia and I figured it out in about an hour. We found a fair trade store and we each got a couple little souveniers (alpaca scarf and hat for me), then went to check on Bethie and have a little siesta. Here's the Plaza de Armas, and Beth and Talia in the Plaza:





And here's Talia in the courtyard of the fair trade shop and cafe (and a close-up of the flowers in the courtyard:




Yesterday was not Bethie´s best day - we´ve been keeping her stocked with drugs from the Farmacia, but I really think the combo of altitude sickness (which includes headache, nausea, and vomiting) and being ill is just kicking her butt. We dragged her out for a bit, went to a little museum that opened just for us - here's a photo of the mummies in the museum:



(FYI: Mummies were "buried" in the fetal position with wordly possessions for their rebirth.)

We went to dinner where we were the only people in the place, but that was about all she could handle. Last night was an early night. Today Beth is feeling better but is still a bit under the weather. Talia and I restocked her drogas from the farmacia, and have altitude sickness pills (really they´re just aspirin, caffeine, and some kind of anti-nausea medicine), so we might try to get her to take one of those today, since today her symptoms are more altitude sickness than illness. Still congested though. Thankfully tomorrow is just a long train ride, so she won´t have to walk anywhere.

Islas Flotantes:

Talia and I, once Beth was settled and restocked, walked about 4km (just under 3 miles) to the Puno port, where we hopped on a boat to the Uros Islands, or Islas Flotantes. These are islands made entirely of reeds and inhabitied by the Uros people. They speak a different language, although most also speak Spanish now as well. It was amazing - I will just have to post the pictures when we get home, because I really can´t describe it. Everything is made of reeds - the actual islands, the houses, the kitchens - everything! We bought some local handicrafts, had a little lecture about how the islands are made, and were treated to a boat ride (5 soles each, about $1.50) on a big boat made entirely of reeds as well. We also were given a reed to peel and eat, which was fun. The people were great, and T and I have tons of photos, don´t worry. I do wish my Spanish was better, but I manage, especially with Beth and Talia around to do my talking for me!

Series of photos of the Islas Flotantes and the reed boats:

Lake with elaborate paddle boats - a la Echo Park (is Puno Echo Park's sister city?):

Each island has a tower with a sign saying where you are - there were 30 or 40 islands!

View from the motor boat of some of the Islas Flotantes:

Talia on the island - the "ground" was spongy and soft, and the kids and most adults were all barefoot!

This girl was selling drawings she had done herself - Talia and I both bought some.

And this is the boat Talia and I rode on to the second island we visited - notice the fangs and fake blood - Beth would have loved it!

We woke Beth afterwards and she seemed a bit better, so we all went to a late lunch. Now, again, it´s siesta time so the ladies are both napping and I´m catching you all up.

One thing I forgot to mention - there are dogs everywhere! Packs of dogs roam the streets all over the place, it´s crazy. And the sidewalks and streets are full of holes. And the honking - I´ve learned the honking is essentially them saying "hey I´m behind you get the heck out of the way," and you´d better, because they don´t stop!

Whew! Tomorrow it´s off to Cusco via train - we leave at 8AM, another early day, but then it´s a train ride through the Andes to Cusco, where we spend the next four or five days. Lots of side trips from there to see little cities and Inca ruins I hope!

Hope everyone is well!